MDgeist - sadly my scanning app only allows me to either saves as BMP or TIFF. So i use XNview to mass covert them to PNG saving me about 40-50% of the file size to around 35-50mg. (better than 70-80mg TIFF >.>)
I keep most of the converted PNG on my comp.
I keep most of the converted PNG on my comp.
Humm..??? What exactly are you scanning at 1200dpi?MDGeist said:
worked kinda good on a 1200 dpi scan
I don't have 300GB HD space to keep raws. sheryl has all. compression is 24bit png to see them on the IRC easily. besides, formats on editing are psd.
@aoie
tested on that SW coverscan, other than that i tried scanning G-Taste @ 1200, but looks like my old scanner produces faults at that resolution so i guess ill stick with 600 for that :(
png hm... i currently favor zipped bmps ... faster editing, about same space, and ill rar them anyways (better transfer speeds @ esata)....
hdd space is cheap nowadays so np...
tested on that SW coverscan, other than that i tried scanning G-Taste @ 1200, but looks like my old scanner produces faults at that resolution so i guess ill stick with 600 for that :(
png hm... i currently favor zipped bmps ... faster editing, about same space, and ill rar them anyways (better transfer speeds @ esata)....
hdd space is cheap nowadays so np...
I think no need to use png if you don't upload files on the web. use bmp/tiff/psd while editing, and archive them after done.
I upload all the stuff i scan to sheryl too. Don't have enough space for all raws.
no backup sucks imho....
There are no big difference of the strength of paper_texture on dark areas between 2 bulbs scan and 1 bulb scan.
But in theory, there must be huge difference on bright areas. so I tested.
wow the result is Σd(ゝω・o)
why not you buy 2 bulbs new epson scanner? (ﾟ∇^*)
But in theory, there must be huge difference on bright areas. so I tested.
wow the result is Σd(ゝω・o)
why not you buy 2 bulbs new epson scanner? (ﾟ∇^*)
Σ(゜д゜;) wow, the difference is pretty evident.
Impressive, that's an decisive improvement to signal-to-noise ratio.
http://www.mediafire.com/?nmxdxdzm5cg
a new action more flexible and less halo artifacts of NW. also it has an example process of fabric texture ( http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/526/clipboard1x.png )
see the requirements: http://moe.imouto.org/forum/show/8171
a new action more flexible and less halo artifacts of NW. also it has an example process of fabric texture ( http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/526/clipboard1x.png )
see the requirements: http://moe.imouto.org/forum/show/8171
The value of the Red on the base skin color in most eroge paintings is 255.
This is a useful knowledge to adjust colors of scans.
This is a useful knowledge to adjust colors of scans.
what about white and black ?
0 / 255 too?
0 / 255 too?
Not sure if there's a different standard in Japan, but printing press ink colours are often defined in PMS colours here. I don't think that moves all the way to the maximum 255 value of the RGB spectrum. The red ink doesn't go to a colour comparable to 255 RGB.
It should be fairly close though. A few (not just Pantone PMS) printing palettes in PS suggest it gets at least to around 240, but you'd really need to know the colour space used in printing and preferably also the code within the space for the red ink used.
It should be fairly close though. A few (not just Pantone PMS) printing palettes in PS suggest it gets at least to around 240, but you'd really need to know the colour space used in printing and preferably also the code within the space for the red ink used.
Prints don't have 0~255 color ranges. when you just use a calibrated scanner, scans must be dimm and look incorrect in the monitor (for example, my scanner set white to 240 in the default setting). adjusting white to 255 is the way to resume original colors before prints.
The value of the line works of the digital paint isn't 0 usually. because many painters colorize the black lines in the latter process of painting (see the line of post #108122 (NSFW) I traced with that technique. the edges are natural than using true black lines)
When you adjust black points, don't adjust the value of edges at 0 blindly.
When you adjust black points, don't adjust the value of edges at 0 blindly.
I am fairly new to scanning so sorry if this is a amateur question. I am scanning using a Epson V500 and the color of my scans is always uneven (darker on right side, lighter on left). Can this be fixed using the scanner's default software or do I need a different program?
If you have a good scanning program, it probably includes curves management. You can use that to correct the color shift. Otherwise you can use any decent image editor (Xnview-Photoshop etc) since they come with curves management.Nocturnal said:
I am fairly new to scanning so sorry if this is a amateur question. I am scanning using a Epson V500 and the color of my scans is always uneven (darker on right side, lighter on left). Can this be fixed using the scanner's default software or do I need a different program?
Epson perfection V500 can keep same brightness levels on the left and right. it maybe because of your way of scanning, or might be a incipient failure product.Nocturnal said:
I am fairly new to scanning so sorry if this is a amateur question. I am scanning using a Epson V500 and the color of my scans is always uneven (darker on right side, lighter on left). Can this be fixed using the scanner's default software or do I need a different program?
post the sample scan on here first, then I'll inspect the trouble.
What kind of screening and any other filtering have you used on this scan?
No screening or filtering. Just a raw scan
You might want to keep the raw scans lossless. Trust me, filtering textured paper is already hell..you don't want to add jpeg artifacts too :DNocturnal said:
No screening or filtering. Just a raw scan
Asked him to hop onto IRC so we could easily exchange words there... hopefully he comes :)
hm..
A CCD scanner shades brightness if the print aren't pressed strongly on the flatbed, that why I debind any prints even just stapled 2 papers.
there is no function to change color balance between the left & the right on the scanner.
if the problem is always occurred in the same range even on a perfect flatted scan, then make an action of photoshop (add adjustment layer with a gradation mask), or ask Epson of the trouble.
A CCD scanner shades brightness if the print aren't pressed strongly on the flatbed, that why I debind any prints even just stapled 2 papers.
there is no function to change color balance between the left & the right on the scanner.
if the problem is always occurred in the same range even on a perfect flatted scan, then make an action of photoshop (add adjustment layer with a gradation mask), or ask Epson of the trouble.
The new function of CS5, the content-aware healing brush surely works to fill the gap on simple continuous patterns.
even it need smoothing with the patch tool later (seems colors can't be match perfectly), but it'll save the time of fixing.
even it need smoothing with the patch tool later (seems colors can't be match perfectly), but it'll save the time of fixing.
The GIMP plug-in Resynthesizer does a similar, but cruder, thing.
My latest action for 300dpi AM screening prints.
http://www.mediafire.com/?wynj5yyf0wt
I simplified the process and make it easiar to track dawn what is going on. The snap shot
1) all processes are going on the 16bit/channel mode because there is noticable difference in the final result, especially on shadows.
2) highlights and shadows are selected by the color range, midtones are selected by the luminance mask. color range selestion makes filtering faster, but only works on narrow range
3) the level after USM2 clips white and black by 1points to resume contrast lost by the filterings. it needs to be adjusted due to scans.
4) the last filtering is applied on the duplicate layer, to do manual masking (there is no need to use it all time)
5) to change the strength of the final greycstoration, it can also work on monochrome and FM screening.
http://www.mediafire.com/?wynj5yyf0wt
I simplified the process and make it easiar to track dawn what is going on. The snap shot
1) all processes are going on the 16bit/channel mode because there is noticable difference in the final result, especially on shadows.
2) highlights and shadows are selected by the color range, midtones are selected by the luminance mask. color range selestion makes filtering faster, but only works on narrow range
3) the level after USM2 clips white and black by 1points to resume contrast lost by the filterings. it needs to be adjusted due to scans.
4) the last filtering is applied on the duplicate layer, to do manual masking (there is no need to use it all time)
5) to change the strength of the final greycstoration, it can also work on monochrome and FM screening.
Thanks, midzki! It's very useful. I'll try it for some scans soon.
if it looks doesn't work well, run only NW to check it can work without error. if it can't run, then use another filter which can reduce chroma noise.
I think changing the parameter of the final greyc works usually, but some screening may need to change the parameter of greyc on midtones. since the size of screening and the strength of paper texture are different among prints.
I think changing the parameter of the final greyc works usually, but some screening may need to change the parameter of greyc on midtones. since the size of screening and the strength of paper texture are different among prints.
MDGeist
how do you save/store your scans ?
still keep the original scans somehow? or only the filtered pngs?
how do you store the raws ? bmp format? zipped ? tiff ?
seems like raring bmps makes more sense than trying to make pngs out of the raws...